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Debt snowball vs avalanche: the numbers

The debt avalanche pays the highest interest rate first; the debt snowball pays the smallest balance first. Where the rates are fixed and no fee or deadline intervenes, avalanche is the cheaper order, because every balance is charged at its own rate. On the two cards below it saves $296.37 over 19 months.

Time to clear the balance

132 months

11 years at $125.00 a month. Interest takes 92% of that first payment.

Interest in month one
$114.50
Off the balance in month one
$10.50
Total interest
$10,378.84
Total paid
$16,378.84
$
%
$

A payment you hold steady. A required minimum is usually recalculated from the balance each month, so it falls as the balance falls.

In short

  • The debt avalanche pays the debt with the highest interest rate first and the debt snowball pays the smallest balance first; both keep every other debt at its minimum payment and roll each freed payment into the next debt.
  • Highest rate first is the cheapest order available when the rates are fixed and comparable and no fee, promotional expiry or deferred interest deadline is in play: on the same monthly budget, the same minimum payments and the same compounding, no other order clears the same debts for less total interest or in less time. Where one of those exceptions exists it outranks the rates and decides the order instead.
  • Where the smallest balance also carries the highest rate the two methods agree on which debt to attack first, and with only two debts that settles it. With three or more they can still part company further down the list, because the second-smallest balance and the second-highest rate need not be the same debt; the orders coincide all the way through only when sorting by balance and sorting by rate produce the same sequence.
  • On two cards, $1,800 at 12 percent and $6,000 at 24 percent, cleared with $500 a month, paying the higher rate first costs $1,272.10 in interest and paying the smaller balance first costs $1,568.47, a difference of $296.37 across the same 19 months.
  • The snowball buys an earlier closed account rather than a shorter run: in that same pair the smaller card is gone in month 5 under the snowball and in month 19 under the avalanche.
  • Three things set the size of the gap: how far apart the rates are, how large a balance the snowball parks in front of the expensive debt, and how long it sits there. Balance size moves the answer about as hard as rate distance does. A gap of one or two percentage points is a small share of the interest bill, though a small share of a large enough debt is still real money, while a low-rate balance sitting in front of a card near 30 percent is where the ordering choice is worth the most.

Two orders for the same money

Both methods start in the same place: a list of what you owe, and one monthly figure you can put against it. Both pay the minimum on every debt. Both send everything left over to exactly one debt at a time. Both take the payment freed when a debt clears and add it to the next one, so the amount attacking the pile never shrinks. That rolling payment is what the word snowball describes, and the avalanche rolls it in exactly the same way.

The methods disagree about one thing only, which debt goes first.

  • Debt avalanche. Sort by interest rate, highest first. Balances are ignored.
  • Debt snowball. Sort by balance, smallest first. Rates are ignored.

When the smallest balance also carries the highest rate both methods point at the same debt, and with only two debts that settles it. With three or more it settles only the first move: the second-smallest balance and the second-highest rate need not be the same debt, so two lists that agree at the top can still part company below it. The question is sharpest when a small balance at a low rate sits in front of a large balance at a high rate, which is the pair worked through on this page:

CardBalanceRateInterest charged in month one
Credit union card$1,80012 percent$18
Rewards card$6,00024 percent$120
Both together$7,800$138

The budget is $500 a month, held steady until both cards are clear, with nothing new charged to either. Take the $138 of interest out of that and $362 comes off the balances in month one, whichever order you pick. The avalanche starts on the rewards card. The snowball starts on the credit union card. Everything below comes out of that single difference.

Why the higher rate goes first

Interest is charged on each balance at that balance's own rate, so what a month costs depends on where the money is sitting and not only on how much of it there is. Write the interest charged in month tt as:

It=ibi,t×ri12I_t = \sum_i b_{i,t} \times \frac{r_i}{12}

Here bi,tb_{i,t} is each balance and rir_i is the annual rate charged on it. With a fixed monthly budget MM, what you owe in total moves like this:

Bt+1=Bt+ItMB_{t+1} = B_t + I_t - M

MM is set by you and BtB_t is whatever last month left behind, so ItI_t is the only term the ordering decision can touch. The way to make it smaller is to hold less money at high rates, which means clearing high rates first.

That is the whole argument. Move a dollar of repayment off a 12 percent balance and onto a 24 percent balance and you save the difference between the two rates on that dollar, in every month that is left. Do it with every spare dollar and you have the avalanche. It is not a preference: with the same budget, the same minimum payments and the same compounding, no order clears the same debts for less interest, and none clears them sooner.

Three conditions sit under that result. The rates have to be comparable, which means the same kind of quoted number. A United States card APR is a nominal annual rate, twelve times the monthly periodic rate, and that is the convention every figure on this page uses. In the United Kingdom and the European Union the advertised APR on a card is an effective annual rate instead, with the compounding already inside it, so it is a larger number than the United States convention would give for the same monthly charge and the two cannot be ranked against each other directly. The second condition is that no fee or promotional rate is about to expire. The third is that every minimum is met either way. Break one of those and the exception decides the order, not the rates.

The same two cards, run both ways

In both runs the waiting card is held exactly still: it receives a payment equal to that month's interest, so its balance neither rises nor falls, and every spare dollar goes to the target. Real card minimums in the United States are usually a small percentage of the balance plus that month's interest, with a floor underneath, so they take a little principal off the waiting card as well. That does not move the two runs the same way. It helps the snowball, whose waiting card is the expensive one and is now being paid down rather than held flat, and it costs the avalanche, which is forced to put money into the cheap card instead of the dear one. On this pair a minimum of one percent of the balance plus interest narrows the gap by roughly a tenth. The order of the two answers does not change; the margin between them gets a little smaller.

Avalanche, rewards card first

StageWhat is being paidPaymentMonthsInterest
1$6,000 at 24 percent$48215$969.78
Held$1,800 at 12 percent$1815$270
2$1,539.78 at 12 percent$5004$32.32
Total19$1,272.10

Snowball, credit union card first

StageWhat is being paidPaymentMonthsInterest
1$1,800 at 12 percent$3805$53.44
Held$6,000 at 24 percent$1205$600
2$5,953.44 at 24 percent$50014$915.03
Total19$1,568.47

Stage 2 opens on an odd number in both tables because the last payment of stage 1 is a short one, and what is left of it rolls onto the other card in that same month.

The honest summary is that the avalanche saves $296.37 and both runs finish in month 19. That is 23 percent of the avalanche's interest bill, 3 percent of everything handed over, and about two and a half months of what the rewards card charges in interest at the start. Which of those framings is the fair one is a question about you rather than about the arithmetic.

How big the gap gets

The gap is not a fixed property of the two methods. It is set by how far apart the rates are, how much money the snowball parks in front of the expensive debt, and how long it parks it there. Hold the two balances and the $500 budget from above, keep the large card at 24 percent, and move only the small card's rate:

Gap between the two ratesSnowball's extra interestExtra, as a share of everything the snowball hands over
0 points0 percent0 percent
3 points4.9 percent0.8 percent
6 points10.4 percent1.6 percent
9 points16.5 percent2.4 percent
12 points23.3 percent3.2 percent
18 points39.7 percent4.7 percent
24 points61.1 percent6.1 percent

The top row is the check on the whole idea: when both debts charge the same rate, the two methods cost exactly the same, because the order of identical rates cannot change ItI_t. Everything below it is the price of the delay.

Balance size moves it as hard as the rate does. Shrink the smaller card to a sixth of the balance used here and the snowball's extra cost falls to about 5 percent, because the expensive card waits only a month or two. Raise it to two and a half times that balance and the extra passes 40 percent.

Two things it barely moves. Finish dates stay close: across every row above the two orders end within a month of each other, so the difference shows up as money rather than as time. And the budget matters more than the order does. Lifting the monthly payment by 40 percent cuts the avalanche's interest bill by about 31 percent in this same pair, more than the entire distance between the two methods.

What an early closed account is worth

The case for the snowball was never that it is cheaper. It is that a plan you finish beats a plan you abandon, and that closing an account is the clearest evidence of progress a repayment plan can produce.

There is evidence behind that, and it is worth being exact about what kind. Consumer research on real repayment records has found that the number of accounts a person closes, rather than the amount of money repaid, predicts whether they clear the whole debt. That is an association in observed behaviour, not a demonstration that choosing the snowball causes anyone to finish: people who close accounts early may differ from people who do not in ways the records cannot show. Separate experimental work, where the repayment order was assigned rather than chosen, found that concentrating on one account instead of spreading payments across several raised the sense of progress and the willingness to keep going, which is closer to a causal claim but sits in a laboratory rather than in a household budget. The findings are not unanimous and the size of the effect is argued over. None of them says the snowball costs less. What they say is that persistence is not something to assume.

Set the numbers against that. Under the snowball the credit union card is gone in month 5. Under the avalanche the same card is still open in month 18 and clears in month 19, and the first thing to close is the rewards card in month 15. That card closes fourteen months earlier under the snowball, but the two runs differ in the number of open accounts for only ten of the nineteen months, because from month 16 the avalanche is down to one account as well. So the snowball is buying ten months of one fewer open account, at $296.37.

Most of what the research points at is available either way. Concentrating everything spare on one debt is common to both methods, and so is watching the target balance drop faster every month as freed payments roll in. What only the snowball delivers is the account closing early.

The two ideas can also be mixed, and the tables above price the mixture. Sorting by rate while letting a genuinely small balance jump the queue is cheap when clearing it takes a month or two: shrinking the smaller card to a sixth of the balance used here left the snowball only about 5 percent dearer. Where the rates sit within a point or two of each other the arithmetic barely separates the orders at this size of debt, though the same one or two points on balances ten times larger, cleared with a budget ten times larger, produce a bill ten times larger. What the arithmetic cannot settle is how much an early closed account is worth to the person making the payments, and that is the part of this decision that is not arithmetic at all.

What outranks the ordering decision

The choice between the two orders is the last decision in this sequence, not the first.

  • Every minimum, every month. A missed payment in the United States can trigger a late fee and a penalty rate, and once it is 30 days late it can be reported to the credit bureaus, where a delinquency can sit on the file for years and weigh on credit scoring the whole time. Any one of those can cost more than the whole distance between the two methods.
  • The rate itself, before the order. In ItI_t the rate is the multiplier and the ordering only decides which balance meets it. A promotional balance transfer rate or a consolidation loan changes rir_i directly, which is a larger lever than the sequence. Whether it helps turns on the transfer fee, the length of the promotional window, the rate waiting at the end of it and, for a consolidation loan, the term: a lower rate stretched over enough extra months can still cost more in total than the debts it replaced. Those sit in the offer terms rather than in the arithmetic here.
  • Deadlines beat rates. A deferred interest promotion, common on United States store cards, waives accrued interest only if the balance clears inside the window and bills all of it at once if the window closes first. That date decides the order on its own.
  • Debts with consequences other than interest. Secured borrowing where an asset can be repossessed, tax debt, and anything close to collections are ranked by what happens if they go unpaid, not by rate.
  • The size of the payment. More money against the debt beats a better order for that money almost every time, which is what the credit card payoff calculator above is for.

Only once those are settled does the ordering question this page is about become the live one, and on cost the arithmetic points one way. The loan payment calculator covers any debt in the list that already has a fixed term.

Worked examples

Where the first \$500 goes

You owe $1,800 on a card charging 12 percent and $6,000 on a card charging 24 percent, and you can put $500 a month against them. Before any ordering decision, how much of that first payment is interest?

  1. Monthly rate on the smaller card: 0.12/12=0.010.12 / 12 = 0.01, so the interest it charges is 1800×0.011800 \times 0.01.
  2. Monthly rate on the larger card: 0.24/12=0.020.24 / 12 = 0.02, so the interest it charges is 6000×0.026000 \times 0.02.
  3. Add the two charges together to get the month's interest bill.
  4. Divide that bill by the $500 budget to see what share of the payment never touches the debt.
  5. Subtract it from the budget to see what does.

The two cards charge $18 and $120, so $138 of the first $500 is interest. That is 27.6 percent of the payment, leaving $362 to come off the balances. Both figures are the same whichever card you attack first, because interest in month one is charged on the balances as they stand. What the ordering decision changes is every month after this one.

Avalanche stage one: the 24 percent card

Attacking the higher rate first, the $1,800 card is held still at $18 a month and the rest of the $500 budget goes to the $6,000 card at 24 percent. How long does that card take and what does it cost?

  1. Holding the other card still takes $18, so the payment on the target is 50018=482500 - 18 = 482.
  2. Monthly rate: 0.24/12=0.020.24 / 12 = 0.02, so month one charges 6000×0.026000 \times 0.02.
  3. That leaves 482120=362482 - 120 = 362 off the balance in month one, and a little more in every month after it as the balance falls.
  4. Repeat until the balance reaches zero, with a short final payment.

The rewards card clears in 15 months. You hand over $6,969.78 against a $6,000 balance, so the interest on it is $969.78, and month one's share of that is $120. The card with the larger balance and the higher rate is doing almost all of the damage, which is exactly why the avalanche sends the money here.

Avalanche stage two: what is left of the 12 percent card

The fifteenth payment on the rewards card is a short one, and what is left of that month's $482 rolls onto the credit union card, taking it from $1,800 to $1,539.78. The whole $500 now goes there. How does the run end?

  1. Fifteen payments of $482 would have been 482×15=7230482 \times 15 = 7230, and only 6,969.78 was needed, so 72306969.78=260.227230 - 6969.78 = 260.22 lands on the other card in month 15.
  2. That card was held still all along, so it opens stage two at 1800260.22=1539.781800 - 260.22 = 1539.78.
  3. Monthly rate: 0.12/12=0.010.12 / 12 = 0.01, so the first charge is 1539.78×0.011539.78 \times 0.01.
  4. The full $500 now goes to this card every month until it clears.

It takes 4 more months. You hand over $1,572.10 on a $1,539.78 balance, so this stage costs $32.32 in interest and opens with a charge of $15.40. Nineteen months in total, and the interest across the whole avalanche run is the $969.78 from stage one, the $270 spent holding this card still for 15 months, and this $32.32.

Snowball stage one: the \$1,800 card

Attacking the smaller balance first, the $6,000 card is held still at $120 a month and the rest of the $500 budget goes to the $1,800 card at 12 percent. How fast does it close?

  1. Holding the larger card still takes $120, so the payment on the target is 500120=380500 - 120 = 380.
  2. Monthly rate: 0.12/12=0.010.12 / 12 = 0.01, so month one charges 1800×0.011800 \times 0.01.
  3. That is $18 against a payment of $380, so more than 95 percent of it comes straight off the balance.
  4. Repeat until the balance reaches zero, with a short final payment.

The card closes in month 5. You hand over $1,853.44 on a $1,800 balance, so it costs $53.44 in interest and opens with a charge of $18. This is the snowball's whole case in one line: an account gone in five months, fourteen months sooner than the avalanche closes the same card.

Snowball stage two: the 24 percent card, five months later

The fifth payment is short, so what is left of that month's $380 rolls onto the rewards card and takes it from $6,000 to $5,953.44. The whole $500 now goes there. What does the rest of the run cost?

  1. Five payments of $380 would have been 380×5=1900380 \times 5 = 1900, and only 1,853.44 was needed, so 19001853.44=46.561900 - 1853.44 = 46.56 lands on the rewards card in month 5.
  2. Held at interest only for those five months, that card starts stage two at 600046.56=5953.446000 - 46.56 = 5953.44, five months later than the avalanche started on it.
  3. Monthly rate: 0.24/12=0.020.24 / 12 = 0.02, so the first charge is 5953.44×0.025953.44 \times 0.02.
  4. The full $500 now goes to this card every month until it clears.

It takes 14 more months, so the snowball also finishes in month 19. You hand over $6,868.47 on a $5,953.44 balance, so this stage alone costs $915.03 and opens with a charge of $119.07. Five months of holding did almost nothing to the balance, and the interest bill for the run is this $915.03 plus the $600 spent holding and the $53.44 from stage one.

The snowball's interest bill in full

Add up every dollar of interest the snowball run charges: stage one on the small card, the months spent holding the large card still, and stage two on the large card. What does the whole run cost against the $7,800 borrowed?

  1. Stage one on the $1,800 card: $53.44.
  2. Holding the $6,000 card at interest only for five months: 120×5=600120 \times 5 = 600.
  3. Stage two on what was left of the large card: $915.03.
  4. Add the three, then set the total against the $7,800 of balances you started with.

The snowball run costs $1,568.47 in interest, which is 20.1 percent of the $7,800 borrowed. The $600 in the middle is the line worth staring at: five months of payments on the expensive card that removed no debt at all, spent so that the cheap card could close early.

The avalanche's bill, and the size of the gap

Do the same for the avalanche run, then set the two totals side by side. How much does paying the higher rate first actually save?

  1. Stage one on the $6,000 card: $969.78.
  2. Holding the $1,800 card at interest only for fifteen months: 18×15=27018 \times 15 = 270.
  3. Stage two on what was left of the small card: $32.32.
  4. Add the three, then subtract the total from the snowball's $1,568.47.

The avalanche run costs $1,272.10, which is 81 percent of the snowball's bill and leaves a saving of $296.37. Both runs clear the same $7,800 in the same 19 months, so the whole difference arrives as money rather than as time. Read it three ways before deciding what it is worth: 23 percent of the cheaper interest bill, 3 percent of everything handed over, and about two and a half months of interest on the rewards card.

Common questions

Which is better, the debt snowball or the debt avalanche?

On cost the avalanche wins, by an amount that can be measured before choosing, as long as the rates are fixed and comparable and no fee, promotional expiry or deferred interest deadline is in play. Sorting by interest rate is the cheapest order available for a given budget, so what is left is how large the difference is on a particular set of debts and what the snowball's earlier closed account is worth against it. On the pair worked through above, two cards of $1,800 and $6,000 cleared with $500 a month, the difference is $296.37 over 19 months. A different pair of balances and rates can produce a far smaller or far larger number, which is what the calculator above is for.

How much does the debt snowball actually cost?

Three things set it: the distance between the interest rates, how large a balance the snowball parks in front of the expensive debt, and how long it sits there. Balance size moves the answer about as hard as rate distance does. Where two debts charge the same rate the two methods cost exactly the same. On the two cards above, three percentage points apart, the snowball costs about 5 percent more interest; at 12 points apart it costs 23 percent more, which is $296.37; at 24 points apart it costs 61 percent more. Multiply the balances and the monthly budget by the same factor and those shares do not move, while the dollars behind them multiply by that factor, so the same percentage on ten times the debt is ten times the money. A small balance that clears in a month or two costs very little to move to the front. A large one at a low rate, sitting in front of a card near 30 percent, is where the choice gets expensive.

Should I close a card once the snowball has paid it off?

Paying a card to zero and closing the account are separate acts, and only the first one is what these methods are about. In the United States, scoring models look at the balances you carry against the limits you have, so closing a paid card removes its limit and can raise the utilisation figure calculated on everything left. Closed accounts also age out of the file eventually, which affects how long an account history looks. Whether that matters depends on the model in use and on the rest of the file, and the mechanics are set out in how credit scores work. An annual fee on a card you no longer use is a separate question with its own answer.

Keep reading

This page is educational material, not financial advice. The figures come from the formula shown and assume the inputs you enter hold for the whole term. Your own rate, fees, taxes and timing will differ, so treat the output as arithmetic to check a decision against, not as a recommendation.