Savings goal calculator: monthly deposit
Work out what the deposits still have to supply, then divide by the annuity factor. Reaching $30,000 in 5 years at 4 percent compounded monthly takes $452.50 a month. You pay in $27,149.74 and interest supplies the other $2,850.26.
Monthly deposit
$452.50
60 deposits reach $30,000 in 5 years.
- Paid in over the term
- $27,149.74
- Interest earned
- $2,850.26
- Balance at the deadline
- $30,000.00
Deposits land at the end of each period, which is what a standing order does.
The formula
is the target, what you have already saved, the annual rate as a decimal, how many times a year interest is added and money goes in, and the number of years. is the deposit at the end of each period.
What this calculator works out
Give it a target, a deadline, the rate the account pays and anything you have saved already. It returns the deposit you need at the end of every period, then splits the target into the money you paid in and the money the interest supplied.
The deposit frequency follows the compounding frequency, so monthly compounding means a monthly deposit and 60 of them over 5 years. That pairing is deliberate. A monthly deposit into an account that adds interest once a year is a different calculation, and treating one as the other is how a plan quietly misses by a few hundred dollars.
The savings goal formula
This is the future value of an annuity, rearranged. Instead of asking what a stream of deposits grows into, it asks what stream reaches a number you have already fixed:
Read it in two halves. The top is what the deposits still have to supply: the target, less whatever your existing balance grows into on its own. The bottom is the annuity factor, which is what one unit of deposit is worth by the deadline once its own interest is counted. At 4 percent compounded monthly over 5 years that factor is 66.298978, so every dollar a month is worth 66.30 at the finish line.
The rate goes in as a decimal, and is the rate for one period, never the annual rate. At 4 percent compounded monthly the period rate is 0.00333333 and there are 60 periods, not 0.04 and 5.
Run the same factor forwards rather than backwards and you get the future value of an annuity calculator, which answers the other half of the question: not what to save, but what a given deposit reaches.
Which lever moves the deposit most
Three things change the answer: the deadline, the head start, and the rate. They are nowhere near equal.
Time is the strongest, and most of what it does has nothing to do with interest. Going from 5 years to 8 on a $30,000 target cuts the deposit from $452.50 to $265.68, about 41 percent. Spreading the same target over 96 deposits instead of 60 would cut it by 37.5 percent in an account paying nothing at all, so the extra interest earned by holding those deposits longer supplies under 4 points of the 41. Time works on the count of deposits first and on the interest second.
A head start comes next. $5,000 sitting in the account at the outset takes the same 5-year deposit from $452.50 to $360.41, roughly a fifth off, because that money is both already there and growing.
The rate is the weakest lever over a short horizon, and the reason is in the numbers above. Over 5 years at 4 percent, interest supplies $2,850.26 of the $30,000, under a tenth of the goal, so a better rate only acts on that tenth. Sweeping the rate across the entire 0 to 15 percent range the slider allows moves the 5-year deposit by about 32 percent, less than three extra years do on their own. Stretch the same goal to 30 years and interest supplies about 48 percent of it, so the rate finally rivals the deadline, though at 4 percent it does not pass half the target until around year 32. The compound interest calculator shows where the crossover sits.
Choosing a target you can act on
The figure you type in should be the money you will need on the day, not the money that sounds right now. Three adjustments are worth making first.
Prices. A target costed at today's prices buys less by the deadline, so either raise it by the inflation you expect over the term, or enter a real rate and read the whole answer in today's money. The real rate is , where is the nominal rate and the inflation rate, not : the subtraction always flatters the answer. And the deposit a real rate gives back is itself in today's money, so the standing order behind it has to rise with prices each year for the plan to hold.
Tax. In an ordinary savings account, interest is usually taxed in the year it is earned rather than when you withdraw, so the rate that matters is the one you keep after tax, not the one advertised. Inside a tax-sheltered account the advertised rate is the one you keep, which is why the wrapper can be worth more than a better headline rate. Which wrappers exist, and how they are taxed, depends on where you live.
The account itself. A rate quoted for 12 months is not a rate you hold for 5 years. If the plan only works at a rate you are not sure of, drag the rate slider down to one you are sure of and look at the deposit that comes back. A plan that survives the lower rate is a plan you can start this month.
Worked examples
Reaching \$30,000 in 5 years from a standing start
You want $30,000 in 5 years. The account pays 4 percent compounded monthly and you have nothing saved yet. What goes in each month?
- Find the period rate: , a third of a percent a month. Carry it as the fraction, not as a rounded decimal, because the next step but one divides by it and so multiplies any rounding error by 300.
- Count the deposits: .
- Build the growth factor: .
- Turn it into the annuity factor: .
- Nothing is saved yet, so the deposits supply the whole target: , which is $452.50 a month.
- Add up what you pay in: $27,149.74.
- The target minus the deposits is the interest: $30,000 less $27,149.74 is $2,850.26.
You need $452.50 a month. Over the 5 years you pay in $27,149.74 and interest supplies $2,850.26, which is a little under a tenth of the target. Short goals are mostly saving, not mostly earning.
The same target with \$5,000 already saved
Same $30,000 target, same 5 years at 4 percent compounded monthly, but there is already $5,000 in the account. What is the deposit now?
- Grow the head start to the deadline first: , or $6,104.98.
- That is what the $5,000 is worth on the day you need the money.
- Take it off the target: , which is what the deposits have to supply. Subtract the unrounded figure: rounding the head start to the cent here moves the total paid in by enough to change it.
- The annuity factor is unchanged at 66.298978, because the rate and the term have not changed.
- Divide: , which is $360.41 a month.
- Total deposits: $21,624.78.
- Interest is the rest: $30,000 less $21,624.78 less the $5,000 you started with is $3,375.22.
The deposit falls to $360.41, roughly a fifth less. The head start does two jobs: $5,000 of the target is covered on day one, and it grows to $6,104.98 by the deadline, so it covers more than its own face value. Interest now supplies $3,375.22 rather than $2,850.26.
Three more years instead of a head start
Same $30,000 at the same 4 percent compounded monthly with nothing saved, but you give yourself 8 years rather than 5. What does the extra time do?
- The period rate is the same , but now .
- Growth factor: .
- Annuity factor: .
- Divide the target by it: , which is $265.68 a month.
- What you pay in: $25,505.11.
- Interest supplies the rest: $30,000 less $25,505.11 is $4,494.89.
$265.68 a month, against $452.50 for the same target in 5 years. Three extra years cut the deposit by about 41 percent, and interest now supplies $4,494.89 instead of $2,850.26. A better rate cannot compete with that over a short horizon: interest was supplying $2,850.26 of the $30,000, under a tenth of the goal, and a higher rate acts only on that tenth. Time acts on the count of deposits itself.
The mistake that costs the most
Treating the money you already have as if it sits still until the deadline.
The natural move is to take the $5,000 straight off the $30,000 target and share out what is left over the months. That subtracts the head start at today's value. But the head start is in the same account earning the same 4 percent, and by the deadline it is $6,104.98, not $5,000. It is the $6,104.98 that comes off the target.
Get it backwards and the deposits are asked to cover when they only have to cover . The deposit comes out about 4.6 percent high. That is the safer direction to be wrong in, since you finish early rather than short, but it is still five years of putting away more than the plan needs.
One habit fixes it. Grow every amount to the deadline before you compare it to anything. A target is a future value, so every figure you set against it has to be a future value too. Money at two different dates is not the same money.
Common questions
Does the deposit go in at the start or the end of the period?
The end, which matches a standing order or a payroll deduction. A deposit made at the start of each period earns one extra period of interest, so the required amount comes out lower by exactly one period's growth: divide by , which at 4 percent compounded monthly is a third of a percent off the deposit. That proportion is the same for every term, and in cash the gap gets smaller as the term gets longer, because the deposit it is a fraction of is smaller. This is the opposite of what happens when you run the annuity forwards, where paying early adds more interest the longer you go.
What if I cannot manage the deposit the calculator gives me?
Change the deadline before you chase the rate. On a $30,000 goal, moving from 5 years to 8 takes the monthly deposit from $452.50 to $265.68, while a better rate over a short term barely moves it. If the deadline is fixed, the next strongest move is putting a lump sum in at the outset rather than trickling it.
Is the \$30,000 in today's money or the deadline year's money?
The deadline year's. The calculator returns the deposit that produces $30,000 on the day, and $30,000 will buy less then than it does now. If you costed the target at today's prices, raise it by the inflation you expect, or enter a real rate and read the answer as today's money, remembering that the deposit is then in today's money too and has to rise with prices each year.
Keep reading
This page is educational material, not financial advice. The figures come from the formula shown and assume the inputs you enter hold for the whole term. Your own rate, fees, taxes and timing will differ, so treat the output as arithmetic to check a decision against, not as a recommendation.